OMEGA Constellation Watches

Predating the constellation was the Omega Centenary (ref. 2499 and 2500), a limited-run automatic chronometer produced in 1948 to celebrate the company’s 100-year anniversary. The 6,000 Centenary watches produced sold out quickly. Omega responded by starting work on the Constellation. Despite the star that appears on its dial and the caseback engraving of the Geneva Observatory, the name “Constellation” was actually inspired by the Lockheed Constellation aircraft. Collectors and enthusiasts affectionately refer to these watches as “Connies.”

The early Constellations, beginning with ref. 2648, were richly appointed with a domed pie-pan dial, Dauphin hands and faceted diamond-shaped markers. Until 1956, Omega Constellations were powered by the calibre 354 bumper movement and produced in yellow or rose gold and steel. Constellations were available in three finish levels: Standard, Deluxe and Grand Luxe.

The Constellation was originally marketed in the United States as the Globemaster, but its branding was unified with the rest of the world in 1956. In 2015, Omega reintroduced the Globemaster as a sub-brand of the Constellation series, this time as a 39mm Co-Axial Master Chronometer (ref. O13053392102001) powered by the calibre 8900 with a pie-pan dial. The modern Globemaster was the first Master Chronometer in history.

Throughout the 1960s, the Constellation series case was round, but Omega adorned it with a wide variety of markers, lugs and bracelets. Toward the end of the decade, the Integral (ref. 189.009), with its rectangular case and fully integrated bracelet, signaled a new direction for the collection. From 1970 until 1982, Omega embraced quartz movements and explored a wide variety of case shapes for both digital and analog models. Omega enthusiasts often lament this era as a period where the series lost its elegant aesthetic.

In 1982, Omega unveiled the Manhattan, widely heralded as a rebirth of the Constellation. The Manhattan remains a cornerstone of the modern Constellation Ladies collection and in the designs of the Gents collections for men, which carry forward the integrated bracelet, polished claws referred to as “Griffies” at 3 and 9 o’clock and intentional lack of sharp edges.

Since 1985, Cindy Crawford has served as brand ambassador for the Omega Constellation. She was recently joined by Nicole Kidman, Alessandra Ambrosio and Liu Shishi to represent the elegance and individuality of the collection.

For nearly all of its existence, the Omega Constellation has been described as an elegant dress watch that is precision engineered for maximum accuracy. Important design elements and features of the collection include:

• 10-sided crowns on early models
• A caseback featuring an engraved image of the Observatory of Geneva
• A wide variety of movements, both mechanical and quartz, beginning with the 35X bumper movement and culminating with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer
• Case shapes including traditional round, rectangle and space-aged looking digital styles in a variety of sizes

Vintage Omega Constellation watches are sought after by collectors and enthusiasts for their style and value. Precious metal cases command higher prices, but owning a used Constellation from the golden era of production that ended in 1969 often requires less investment than many other vintage watches. Early models featuring the pie-pan dial are the most prized, especially all-original examples softened with a desirable patina. The finish designations – Standard, Deluxe and Grande Luxe – can create confusion over value since the designations were applied in a somewhat fluid manner.

To confirm authenticity, look for the 10-sided crown, the unique serial number, a rectangular date window (if applicable), an original crystal etched with the Omega logo and the presence of a collection-appropriate movement. Used Omega Constellation watches with rectangular cases from the 1970s and pre-owned Manhattans, Gents Collection and Ladies Collection models from the 1980s forward remain highly desirable.