Introduction to the TAG Heuer Link
Since first introduced as the S/el series, the TAG Heuer stainless steel Link has been among the most popular ranges in the TAG family of fine Swiss-made watches. Defined by its instantly recognizable bracelet, the Link collection enjoys great appeal for its sporty designs that wear perfectly in a dress or work context.
TAG Heuer Link Series History
TAG Heuer introduced the S/el collection in 1987. It was the first all-new watch series produced by the company since Heuer was acquired by Techniques d’Avant Garde (TAG) in 1985. S/el stood for “Sport/Elegance,” which signaled TAG’s intent to produce performance-oriented timepieces that could also be worn under shirt sleeves and a suit jacket.
S/el watches were primarily quartz-powered with some automatic and digital versions. Equipped with dive watch features such as a rotating bezel, screw-down crown, highly legible luminous markings and water resistance to 200 meters, S/el chronometers were capable divers. It was the bracelet’s S-shaped interlocking links, however, that garnered the most attention and ultimately inspired the 1999 rebranding to “Link.”
Curiously, the first models offered in 1999 after S/el was rebranded Link did not include the name on the watch face. “LINK” did not actually appear on the watch face until 2002, three years after S/el was retired and one-year after Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) acquired TAG Heuer.
The first generation of TAG Heuer Link watches was comprised of four quartz and automatic chronometers and chronographs. The cases in the collection were similar to the S/el, but hands and markers were updated along with oversized numbers at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock on all but the Calibre 7 Chronograph.
TAG Heuer refined Link’s visual appeal with updates to the dial, hands, bezel, markers and brushed cases on second and third generation Link collections in 2004 and 2006, respectively. 2011’s fourth generation Link featured a new cushion-shaped bezel, significant updates to the case (including a larger 43mm Chronograph) and flattening of the bracelet’s signature S-shaped links. TAG also foreshadowed what was to come in 2017 by blending some polished elements with the traditional brushed finish.
TAG Heuer describes the 2017 update as a relaunch of the Link collection. The new designs for ladies and men coupled a simplified cushion case with further updates to the bracelet design. By adding extensive contrast with more polish, the TAG Heuer Link successfully elevates the concept of an elegant sports watch.
TAG Heuer Link timepieces have frequently been seen on the wrists of celebrities like Leonardo DiCaprio, Brad Pitt, Cameron Diaz, Patrick Dempsey, Uma Thurman, Bella Hadid, Chris Hemsworth and Ayrton Senna.
TAG Heuer Link Features
The Link’s integrated adjustable bracelet is its most recognizable characteristic. Designed for comfort, the bold bracelet evolved from the S/el’s smooth, rounded style to a flatter version in the early/mid-2000s.
With the 2017 revamp, the bracelet’s beveled edges and roomier links evoked the spirit of the original models. First generation models featured oversized Arabic numbers, stick markers and sword hands, replacing the S/el’s Mercedes-style hands. Triangular markers appeared in the second generation along with more delicate hands, a two-part dial and non-rotating flat bezel. TAG added exhibition casebacks in 2007 and brought back the rotating bezel on the Calibre 5, though fixed bezels often decorated with diamonds in the ladies series are the standard for newer models.
Dials are available in a variety of colors including the ever-popular blue and black faces. Fifth generation dials are typically solid colors, which is a departure from the previously present vertical stripe pattern.
All Link cases are steel and water resistant to 100 meters. The current collection ranges in size from the ladies 32mm to the 41mm Calibre 17 Chronograph. TAG Heuer Link quartz and automatic versions have been available throughout the line’s existence. The current edition features calibre 5 and 17 movements as well as quartz variations.
TAG Heuer Link Collectability
Pre-owned TAG Heuer Link watches from all generations are worth considering. The resale market for Link is strong with an abundant supply of affordably priced options. Because the line has evolved so rapidly, finding the right watch will depend on individual preferences for details and design.
Unlike other luxury watches, Link is defined by its bracelet design, so choosing a model based on the style of the bracelet is an excellent starting point. Look for special editions and notable models including the quartz-mechanical Calibre S, Roman Numeral models, the Calibre 36 “El Primero” and any of the Tiger Woods, Leonard DiCaprio or Ayrton Senna limited editions.
New TAG Heuer Link watches carry a two-year warranty. While some TAG Heuer watches may not hold value to the same extent as other luxury brands, the high-quality movements and detailed designs continue to make the Link a highly desirable everyday watch.
Watchmaker’s Perspective
The TAG Heuer Link may have started as a design inspired by a novel bracelet, but there is much more to the watch than just its bracelet. The TAG Heuer Link was the first watch from TAG Heuer to use the brand's new in-house manufactured Calibre S movement.
Calibre S is an electro-mechanical quartz chronograph movement. The Caliber S was announced by TAG Heuer in 2005 and became available to purchase in their watches in 2007. Caliber S is an ultra-complex quartz movement, with over 230 parts. Compare this to a traditional quartz chronograph movement with roughly 40 parts.
Why the need for more parts? A desire to increase performance and usability. Five bi-directional motors sit at the heart of the Caliber S, each powering one dial-side indication. With each indication of the dial side powered on its own, it was easy for TAG Heuer to increase the size of the sub-dials, making the watch much more legible. Achieving this with a mechanical movement would have been nearly impossible, so the use of a quartz movement makes a lot of sense.
Another improvement over a traditional mechanical chronograph is the accuracy of engagement when starting and stopping the mechanism. The Caliber S boasts a much more precise engagement, which is all the better when measuring precise elapsed periods of time.